, ,

From a 1er Cru Volnay , this Burgundy (made from 100% Pinot Noir) was not what I expected.  New World Pinot came to mind when I opened it up and took the first taste.  Strawberry on the nose and initial attack rather than the more typical cherry flavors that were quite nice, yet somehow disappointing.  For me, Burgundy has a certain place in the wine world, a definitive flavor that others try to emulate, but rarely succeed.  Most New World Pinot makers don’t even strive to copy Burgundy, it just can’t be done, so they make a different style.  So why does this bottle not follow tradition, and stray to the modern version of this seductive grape?

When speaking of tannins and structure, Pinot Noir, to me, is the most difficult grape to analyze.  I can never sense the tannic structure of Pinot, I have tried to no avail.  Cabernet Sauvingnon is easy, if my mouth puckers- tannin.  Burgundy makes ageworthy wine, and winemakers rely on balance and tannins to build up the backbone of these wines.  Gauging the cellaring potential of this bottle is nigh on impossible.  I cannot sense where it is going and how long it will take to get there.  As I mentioned, it has no typicity to the region, and I wonder if it is the vintage in question, or a new style that the winemaker is trying to achieve.  Being confused here, I cannot decide what more to say.  If you like Pinot, but are not really looking for Burgundian flavors, then give it a try.  If it is true Burgundy that you seek, stay away.  I am going to retaste it in a year and pass judgement, until then- 3 stars.

louis boilot volnay