Finger Lakes Detour

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Moxie and I were headed north to Ottawa this past weekend to be with our son while he competed at the Canadian National Skating Competition.  A slight detour off the main highway and we were in New York wine country.  We visited two wineries for a full-on tasting and had lunch and a glass at a third.  Mid January is a spectacular time of year to visit- no crowds, cheap hotels and plenty of food options.  It can get chilly though if the wind picks up.  Interesting anecdote about the region that I learned in my wine studies.  The Finger Lakes are located at 42+ degrees North which can get nippy, preventing grapes from fully ripening.  However, due to the depth of the lakes (some of which are over 600 feet deep), the warmth of the summer is retained well into the fall, allowing for a longer, less variable growing season.  The bodies of water temper the climate and this is evident when looking at the proximity to the lakefront at each winery.  Probably 2-3 miles at most, and as we saw, the snow accumulation was far less on the vineyards than it was further away from the lakes.  Most of the higher quality grapes are planted on the west side of the lake, facing east for maximum sun exposure, a trick they learned from the Europeans no doubt.

 

As spectacular as the scenery was, we were there to taste wine.  Our first stop had me  take a few snaps of Seneca Lake on our way to the Hermann J. Wiemar winery.  We tasted 6 wines including two Rieslings, a Gewürtztraminer, Grüner, Blaufrankish and Cab Franc.  A separate post will follow with the details.

 

Lunch took us to the Tabora winery where I enjoyed a Cottage Pie with their Dry Riesling.  It was decent, but not on par with the Weimar Rieslings we tasted.  A friendly and fun stop on our way to the next big tasting- Dr. Konstantin Frank.

An absolutely gorgeous drive from Seneca lake to nearby Keuka lake had us stop and admire the tribute to the father of Naval Aviation- Glenn Curtiss.  Winding roads and clear skies took us to the steeper hillside where the next tasting awaited.

A well designed, airy room with beautiful views of the lake greeted us alongside unique wine glass holders that held 5 wines for each of us to sample.  Moxie leaned more on the whites, starting with a bubbly and finishing off with a delicious Blaufränkish (which I bought several bottles of).  I enjoyed their Chardonnay immensely before moving to the reds- Pinot noir, Cab Franc and then some interesting varietals.  Saperavi and Amur were the closers.  Very yummy stuff.  The winery offers a rather hefty charcuterie platter, which I recommend if you are there to simply enjoy the ambiance and try the wines.  A great time was had as the sun set before we headed north to the town of Geneva.

Our digs for the night- 41 Lakefront Hotel, a Trademark Collection by Wyndham was right on the water and the room had a great view.  We had to crack the window as Moxie likes it a little chilly.  Apart from that it was fine.

Dinner was at a restaurant that the guys from the Frank winery recommended- Kindred Fare.  I opted for the special- braised Pork shank.  It was monstrous and delicious.  The hunk of meat was cooked to perfection and sat on a bed of pureed squash with Morel mushrooms.  The dessert was a bit of a letdown but the server did remove the charge as a courtesy.  Great stuff and a nice decor to boot.

Our second day was basically food/coffee and go. The hotel breakfast was delicious- the eggs Benny were cooked perfectly and the potatoes were crispy and light, not oily.  The weather had turned so it was a good time to hit the road to see our boy.  The next few days were spent holed up in the Ottawa Marriott with Uber Eats as the only option due to the lockdown in force.  Luckily we had plenty of wine to tide us over!  Salut….

 

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Clos Apalta ‘Le Petit Clos’ 2017, Apalta Valley, Chile

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I cheated for the fourth wine at our 23rd virtual wine tasting night.  I have had this stunning Bordeaux blend before and knew it would get accolades.  Why not close out a tasting session on a proven winner?  You can read my original notes on the Petite Clos here.

It is a deep claret color with rich blackberry, coconut, sarsaparilla, anise, toast and black cherry on the nose.  Rich fruit is what I noted for the palate- we got black plum, black cherry, cherry coke, coconut and anise on the palate which has great tannic structure, medium (+) acidity, medium finish and is full bodied.  The mouthfeel on this wine is going to be spectacular with a bit of cellaring.  Drink this 93 point beauty till 2030 at the least with hearty grilled meat, heavy duty stews or rich dishes.  Great job on this $40 wine that gets 5 stars from me.  Slam-dunk if you are looking for a surefire winner for a tasting.  Salut….

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Trois Sources 2015, Rhone, France

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This Grenache blend was third up at our virtual tasting.  It showed well but was not my favorite.  Deep garnet, it was more opaque than I was expecting.  Pomegranate, raspberry, pepper, anise, kirsch, bramble and strawberry jam notes on the nose were echoed on the palate.  We also got a green olive aftertaste with cedar and charcoal on the mid palate.  Very integrated tannins, low acidity, medium bodied and a long finish made this a 91 pointer.  At $50 I was hoping it filled the 93 point hype the pros gave it, alas it was just decent.  3 stars from me.  Drink till 2025.  Salut…

Chateau de Belcier 2010, Cotes de Castillon, France

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Number two wine at our 23rd virtual tasting was this mature Merlot-based Bordeaux blend from the great 2010 vintage. Deep garnet with evidence of bricking in the glass.  Nose of black cherry, tobacco, graphite, musty and earthy with leather, pencil shavings, cassis and stewed strawberry.  The palate is very smooth with integrated tannins that are fully resolved.  The tertiary notes are all present alongside smoke, blackberry, blackcurrant and cedar.  The wine has a milder taste and is quite dry.  Medium bodied it has a medium length finish.  I’m going with 91 points and a drinking window up till 2025.  At $20- it’s a great intro to an aged Right Bank wine that gets 5 stars from me.  Salut….

Oremus ‘Mandolas’ Tokaji Dry 2018, Tokaj, Hungary

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We started our 23rd Virtual Wine Tasting with this Furmint, a varietal I have never had before. Tasted chilled and then at room temperature, it was a completely different wine.  Medium lemon color the chilled version had pear, apple, apricot, lemon and a brie-like note.  The palate also included honeysuckle and lemon pith.  Medium body and medium acidity led to a decent finish.

The room temperature serving was skunky on the nose- that Brie note really taking the pole position.  Spices, honeysuckle, nuts, brioche and a greenness with hints of Malolactic fermentation.  The palate was ‘yucky’ and flabby for me.  Buttery, pithy and bitter- the lemon was evident to a degree but the wine was just too funky.  I scored it a 7.5 on my VWTC scoresheet. Overall this $25 bottle got 89 points making it a 3 star wine. Drink well chilled until 2025 with seafood, Alfredo or even a grilled chilled salad. Salut….

Cono Sur Reserva Especial Carmenere 2017, Cachapoal Valley, Chile

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I’m re-visiting this varietal as it intrigues me.  Back in the day I had some great Carmenere’s but recently had the misfortune of trying one that was over-the-top vegetal.  I really despised it and could not bring myself to drink any for quite a while.  This one is quite opaque in the glass and purple in color.  The nose has got some creosote, cooked black plum, iron, graphite, blackberry and cracked pepper.  The palate is a touch thin but I get black fruit and earthy minerality along with the tar-like flavors I got on the nose.  It is very smooth with low to medium tannins and medium acidity on the back end.  The wine would be classified as light weight in body even though it sports 14.5% ABV.  The finish is medium in length and I get more of that black pepper component along with some espresso notes.  It’s a decent drop that gets 87 points from me.  I would drink until 2024 with grilled meats and chimichurri sauce for sure.  At under $10 it’s easy to stock up on this 3 star wine.  Salut….

Orin Swift Mannequin Chardonnay 2018, California

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I am experimenting tonight with sous vide Salmon.  Never cooked it this way before and I’m finishing it with a cilantro and garlic butter so I needed a full bodied, rich white.  Orin Swift makes delicious reds which are powerful, extracted and definitely high on the alcohol side of things so I figured I would give their white a try.  It is a deep gold color in the glass and shows a watery sheen on the sides which does not indicate a thing about the monster 15% ABV which I noticed on the label.  The nose has pronounced lemon and lime aromas alongside hazelnuts, green apple, cut grass (strange aroma for this varietal), a touch of toast and butter.  The palate is classic west coast Chard.  Buttery, rich, full bodied, citrusy with a hint of that chardonnay yeastiness aka bakers spice.  The acidity is on the lower end of the spectrum but the wine is definitely bold, with big fruit flavors and plenty of mouthfeel.  The finish is decent in length and the malolactic notes (toast, butter, brioche) really feature on the back end.  This wine is 5 years old and is drinking nicely now but will potentially cellar till 2027.  I think the pairing will work nicely as would roast game hens, Paella or Gumbo.  $32 gets you a bottle of this 91 point wine.  5 stars but beware the well hidden alcohol, it will sneak up!  Salut….

Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2018, Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina

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I have drunk numerous vintages of this Malbec, in copious quantities to boot- so when I was looking for a red wine to try and pair with Andouille and Shrimp Creole I thought this might just work.  Spicy foods need to stay away from very tannic wines which need to be very fruit forward and cannot flaunt too much acidity.  This varietal is just that; medium tannins, high in fruit and mild in acidity.

This Reserve offering is inky purple in the glass, like opaque.  The nose is very fruity with ripe plum, toast, cinnamon, blackcurrant, black cherry and anise.  The palate is beautiful- full bodied yet super smooth with black fruits galore, gentle acidity and lithe tannins.  A virtual compote of black and dark red fruit with hints of oak.  A long finish that is all fruit, little astringency and mildly tart- perfect for my needs.  I would also pair this wine with roast poultry, venison, even a pork tenderloin and obviously steaks.  It will drink nicely till 2026 and gets 91 points from me.  At $18 it’s a steal that gets 5 stars.  If you like round, plush, fruity wines that are not very tart or astringent then look for this gem.  Salut….

Ricitos de Oro Black Garnacha & White Garnacha 2013, Navarra, Spain

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Semi opaque ruby in the glass- this is a blend of black and white Grenache (Garnacha).  The nose is a bit tart with red currants, sour red cherry and raspberry.  Orange peel (oak influence) and pomegranate also come to mind.  There is a leathery component but it is faint.  The palate is very unique.  First off, it is dry ie. not sweet, and has some lithe tannins.  Medium acidity and medium weight body carry the red fruit flavors to a decent length finish.  I totally get the orange peel on the palate alongside what I could best describe as strawberry soda pop.  It tastes almost sweet but there is no residual sugar here.  It may be the ripeness of the fruit at play.  Very nice, easygoing mouthfeel makes this a pleasure to sip.  It doesn’t have terrific structure left but it is holding out pretty well at 8 years old.  Perhaps till 2025 and pair it with lighter steaks, maybe roast duck, or even vegetables tossed with pasta and Olio.  89 points from me makes this $15 wine a 4 star effort.  Salut….

 

Clos De Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2016, Napa Valley, California

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Happy New Year!  I missed a night of tasting- opting instead for beer, champagne and mulled wine for the festivities.  Back to work, this is the Reserve version of the last wine I tasted- The Clos de Napa Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon.  This upgraded one is opaque and brooding- a deep ruby in the glass with watery legs.  The nose is uplifting with pronounced aromas of black plum, cassis, black fruit compote, eucalyptus, charred wood, graphite and a mineral streak.  The palate is yummy.  Slightly dry with good tannic structure that is integrating, medium acidity and a generous body.  Black fruits, deft oak and minerality make for a lovely mouthfeel that has plenty of structure and fruit that continues on to a medium-to-long finish that turns quite dry- somewhat mouth puckering to be sure.  The graphite note really hits on the finish, it is quite an interesting twist.  This is a cellar worthy wine that is drinking nicely now if you like them dry and fruity.  I think it will evolve nicely over time and drink till 2028.  Steaks are on the grill with sautéed eggplant alongside sweet potato fries.  91 points and 4 stars for this $40 Napa Cab.  Salut….