Famiglia Cotarella Falesco Vitiano Rosso Italia 2018, Italy

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It’s labeled as a Rosso Italia which means there is no rules the winemaker had to play by as far as varietals, blending, aging etc.  It’s the way it should be if you ask me- let the winemaker make the choices, not hamstrung by Byzantine Old World rules.

It is a deep claret color with medium intensity aromas of red cherry, blackcurrant, ripe plum, baking spice and a touch of charcoal.  The palate is dry and grippy with upfront, somewhat green tannins.  Medium (-) acidity, medium body and short finish.  The flavors are much more focused on blackcurrant and cherry, with a hint of spice and oak influence peeking out from behind the tannic veil.  The astringency is a little much to be honest, this is either a very young wine, or just out of balance.  At $12 per bottle it is a handy blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cab Sav that get 88 point from me.  Drink this 4 star wine with meaty dishes or hearty pasta till 2025.  Salut….

Gustave Lorentz Riesling Vieilles Vignes Altenberg de Bergheim 2015, Alsace Grand Cru, France

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It’s Valentine’s Day and we are steaming up some Lobster tails with drawn butter and baked potatoes.  Need I say more?  A Riesling is about as perfect a pairing for that combo as I can imagine.  This one happens to be a Grand Cru that was recommended to me by a wine-drinking friend.

It is pale gold in the glass.  The nose has pronounced aromas of lemon zest, tangerine, lime cordial, honeysuckle, jasmine, quince and white peach- mesmerizing.  The palate is dry with bracing acidity, medium (+) body, long finish and generous mouthfeel.  The palate is chock full of citrus and florals with some white peach and ginger. The acidity is immense on the back end where the fruit flavors manage to survive the onslaught.  This wine begs for the butter I am about to throw at it, it is so crisp.  Delicious now, this one will last a long time in the cellar and hopefully develop tertiary notes that good Rieslings are known for- I feel like I committed wine infanticide.  92 points from me for this $50 treat makes it a 5 star wine.  Salut….

Vermouth taste test

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Moxie (and I) enjoy a Manhattan every so often so when I made a batch for the Super Bowl I realized I needed more ingredients.  I have experimented in the past with different Vermouths ranging from the cheap-and-cheerful Martini & Rossi to the $45 per bottle Carpano Antica.  They were all out of our usual- the Dolin so I settled for a split of Carpano Classico at $12 for the 375ml.  Drinking Vermouth straight up is not something to be done daily but in my quest to build a better palate I am willing to take one for the team.  Here goes-

Dolin Vermouth de Chambéry

Right off the bat this pale amber (wine?) has aromas of juniper.  Secondarily I get bitter orange, a medicinal hint and some cooked cherry cake with baking spices.  On the palate this 16% ABV wine is off-dry with bitter orange, baking spices, medicinal notes and a dusty tree bark hint that I have never come across before.  Medium (-) acidity, medium body and a decently long finish make for a very pleasant surprise- I really like this all by itself!  It’s not a daily drinker, but a small glass every so often with some tapas would not go amiss.  It’s our go-to mixer for now.

Carpano Classico

Slightly darker and more amber in the glass this one runs the same 16% ABV.  The nose is a bit more rustic with some earth and burnt sugar (from oak?). It’s more on the Bitters side of things along with grilled orange peel, a touch of some medicinal notes and a bit of stewed cherry.  The palate is far more bitter than the Dolin, not really astringent but very much like dried orange pith.  It’s not a sipper…nope.  It feels more acidic and has a sharp mid palate of bitter orange that carries to the shortish finish.  Medium bodied it shows off the alcohol ever so slightly.  Not my favorite, but we will see how it fares as a Manhattan component.

Our Classic Manhattan recipe

  • 2 parts Canadian Whisky (I opt for the Kirkland Signature, at $20 for 1.75 ltr it’s damn good)
  • 1 part Sweet Vermouth (Usually the Dolin, at $17 a bottle it’s middle of the road on price)
  • dash of Angostura bitters (Not too much as the Vermouth is inherently bitter)
  • dash of Luxardo cherry juice (It HAS to be Luxardo, anything else is crap)
  • Shake well with ice and serve garnished with a Luxardo cherry or two

 

Two Hands Wines Lily’s Garden Shiraz 2017, McLaren Vale, Australia

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I’m grilling Picanha steaks tonight and needed a rich red wine, Aussie Shiraz fits the bill.  This one is deep ruby, nearly dark purple.  Very brooding and mysterious.  The nose has got gobs of ripe blackberry, blackcurrant cassis, oak, purple licorice, and black plum.  The aromas are so pronounced I have to take a breather- super concentrated.  The palate is dry with an immediate back palate astringency that I don’t think I like.  I’m going to walk away and let it breathe.

It’s still there unfortunately.  Anyways- I get black fruit compote, rich cassis and oak cloaked in medium level tannins and medium (+) acidity.  I find the wine a touch thin on the mid palate making it medium bodied- not what I was hoping for tonight.  The finish, once I get past the astringent portion is actually quite nice and makes up for the thin mid.  Juicy, a touch dry from the lingering tannins and laced with licorice and black fruit.  Overall this wine disappoints me as I have had stunning bottles from this producer, perhaps this one is off.  At $50 this wine is a 2 star effort as I am going with 87 points- far below the pros who tagged it with 91,92 and even 96 points.  Must be a bad bottle.  Shame.  Salut….

Cockburn’s Special Reserve Port NV, Portugal

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The third Port in a trio I recently purchased this one is a Special Reserve.  It’s way more opaque than the Ruby I tasted previously.  The nose has nuts, lots of them, plus rich blueberry compote, blackberry jam, prunes, stewed cherry and raspberry.  A virtual melange of red, black and blue fruit.  The nuts are fascinating- walnuts, pecan and filberts.  The palate is mouth-coating with delicious, rich fruit and lithe tannins.  Medium (-) acidity allows this wine’s fruit to shine whilst the tannins sneak out to the finish.  Stewed blackberry, blueberry and cherry are the primary fruit flavors.  Walnut and pecan with a faint trace of smoke round it out.  The tannins are very fine-grained and stick around for a while.  This is delicious stuff, no doubt.  I got it for $16, and it gets 91 points from me upending the Fine Ruby as my new go-to Port to stock up on.  5 stars for sure.  Salut…..

Cockburn’s Fine Ruby Port NV, Portugal

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In my continued Port education I bough this Ruby to further get to grips with the various styles.  It is deep ruby colored- who would have thought.  The nose has medium intensity aromas of blackberry jam, raisins, blueberry pie, a touch of heat, prunes and a walnut-like note.  The palate is off-dry with medium acidity and medium (+) tannins.  The body is medium (+) but I don’t get a hint of the heat I caught on the nose- good thing.  The fruit is very fresh if you can call prunes and raisins fresh-tasting!  Anyways, the palate offers up the jammy and cooked flavors I got on the nose minus the walnuts.  The wine leaves a coating of lithe tannins on my gums at the finish which is medium length.  An interesting sensation to say the least.  It is making me purse my lips, wanting more of this elixir.  I like it and at $12 it is very easy to stock up on.  89 points from me makes this my new favorite 5-star Port.  Drink fresh.  Salut….

Morande Adventure ‘Vigno’ 2017, Maule Valley, Chile

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Primarily Carignan this Chilean red also has 8% Syrah and a splash of Chardonnay- yes, you read that right.  Whilst not very common, adding a white grape with red has been practiced for centuries, especially in the Northern Rhone Valley.  This one is a medium shade of ruby with pretty thick legs.  On the nose I get waves of red cherry, black cherry, sweet oak, floral notes, vanilla, baking spice, blackberry and some bramble.  Quite complex I must say.  The palate is dry with nicely integrated tannins that are present but not overpowering.  Medium acidity, medium body and a decently long finish wrap up the rather pronounced flavors of red and sour cherries, violets, blackberry, vanilla and baking spice.  I don’t get as much oak nuance on the palate as I got on the nose.  The finish is quite tart and juicy with the tannins starting to grip a bit more.  This reminds me of a youngish Sangiovese- lots of sour cherry, good acidity and back-end tartness.  I like this wine and would serve it with pasta and steaks.  It’s a decent wine for $23, like 91 points worthy which makes it a 5 star effort to drink till 2027.  Salut….

Beaulieu Vineyard Muscat de Beaulieu NV, California

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Medium gold in color this dessert wine has medium intensity aromas of honey, stewed apricot, cooked red apple and orange peel- not overly complex.  The palate is very slippery.  Medium (-) acidity, full body, medium intensity flavors of honey, orange pith, stewed apricot, and that orange peel.  I didn’t get the apple note btw.  It’s got weight  and a nice mouthfeel but the depth of fruit flavor is lacking.  I like it for a basic after-dinner treat on a weekday that runs $20 per half bottle that gets 86 points from me and 2 stars.  18% ABV btw.  Salut….

Dr. Konstantin Frank Hilda Chardonnay 2020, Finger Lakes, New York

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This Finger Lakes Chardonnay is a very pale shade of lemon in the glass.  The nose is an explosion of aromas- lemon, grapefruit, tangerine spritz, candle wax, honeysuckle and orange blossom.  It is very clean and precise.  The palate is dry with bracing acidity and tons of citrus and floral notes.  The focus is on lemon and tangerine but I also get a hint of green apple and quince.  The cutting acidity is very refreshing so is the lack of any Malolactic fermentation.  This Chardonnay is made in a much leaner style than some of the flabby, buttery ones from out West.  Medium to full bodied, it has great structure and balance that leads to a medium length finish.  I drank it at the winery and reviewed it very casually- giving it 91 points which is the same figure here.  $35 makes it a 4 star wine that I will be pairing Salmon with.  Drink over the next few years with seafood or white meat.  You can read my write-up at https://caspernick.com/2022/01/15/dr-konstantin-frank-winery-tasting/ Salut….

Hidden Bench Estate Pinot Noir 2019, Beamsville Bench, Canada

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I was in Quebec a few months ago and picked up a few Canadian Pinots.  This one is pale ruby in the glass with a watery sheen showing off its relatively low 13% ABV.  The nose has medium intensity aromas of strawberry, red cherry, cinnamon, earthy bramble, pomegranate and a hint of cedar.  The palate is crisp and tart.  Fine grained tannins lead the way to a sour cherry mid palate where I am enjoying a melange of red fruit.  The back end is juicy with really good acidity and a hint of oak influence.  Sour red cherry is the key here, as it should be with this varietal.  The wine is light to medium bodied and has a crunchy mouthfeel- it’s a fresh, young wine for sure.  The finish is medium in length and very tasty if not a touch sharp.  I like it.  Pairing ideas for this 91 pointer would be roast chicken, Eggplant Parm or a cheese plate.  I think it is open for business and will remain so till 2025.  At $30 USD it’s a 5 star wine that might be a bit difficult to source here in the USA, but look for it up North eh.  Salut….