Author Archives: caspernick

Anselmo Mendes Contacto Alvarinho 2020, Vinho Verde, Portugal

27 Sunday Feb 2022

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We kicked off the 25th Virtual Wine Tasting event with this Alvarinho.  The winemaker has allowed some skin contact during fermentation so I was hoping for a rounder, fuller bodied wine.  We tasted it at room temperature and then chilled.  Here is what the group thought of this wine.

Pale straw colored with citrus, pineapple, yellow apple and saline on the nose.  Someone caught a whiff of petrol and we decided that the smell of Vaseline was an appropriate moniker.  Medium acidity and light bodied this wine has medium intensity flavors of honey, tangerine, grapefruit, pineapple, yellow apple and I sensed brioche.  I gave this version 11 marks on the VWTC score sheet.

The chilled version was crisper and had more prominent aromas and flavors.  Saline, honeysuckle and brioche with far less apple/citrus notes on the nose.  The palate had melon, grapefruit, pineapple and we felt the acidity was more prominent.  The wine had more body and scored 13 marks with me.  Overall this $20 gets 89 points from me, which is a far cry from the monster scores the pros gave.  I will re-taste tonight and report back if there is any significant change to my assessment of this 3 star effort.  Drink now with seafood or a chicken salad.  Salut….

William Gordon Winery Petite Sirah 2014, Alexander Valley, California

25 Friday Feb 2022

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Moxie is cooking dinner- a beef dish that is heavily influenced by mushrooms.  In case you did not know- umami (found in mushrooms) has a distinct affect on wine.  It makes a red taste more dry and bitter, more acidic, less fruity/sweet.  A perfect pairing for this would be a full bodied, rich, tannic wine with medium acidity and not overly dry- Petite Sirah is the answer.  Here goes.

Deep purple in the glass, this wine is inky.  The nose has pronounced aromas of black cherry, blackberry, macerated black plum, dark chocolate, anise, barnyard (kinda strange for the varietal) and smoke.  The palate is rich and dry.  Medium (+) tannins, full body and medium length finish.  The fruit flavors are delicious.  Black berries, currants, plums and pepper.  The smoke is evident as is the licorice note I got earlier.  It doesn’t quite hold up to the 2013 Petite Sirah I drank last year but it does rate well at 90 points.  For $45 it gets 3 stars from me.  Drink till 2028 with hearty meat dishes, especially those with some well marbled beef.  Salut….

The Negroni Cocktail

25 Friday Feb 2022

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I’m putting the horse before the cart here- tasting a cocktail whose ingredients I am not fully versed in.  I bought the Campari to make this drink but my day got away from me and it’s 5 o’clock- time for an aperitif.  I’ll do a taste test of that bottle at a later date.  For now I am trying, for the first time, a Negroni.

Tasting it without ice or any orange peel as I want to get the essence of the blend without outside influence.  It is a stunning shade of rustic orange.  I can smell it a mile away btw.  On the nose it is orange driven.  I get orange peel, candied orange, orange zest and then some hints of baking spices, black cherry and a saline note.  The palate is bitter yet sweet.  Quite delicious actually.  Orange components with a licorice tinge, baking spices, medium acidity and a full body make this an elixir to savor.  It coats the palate with candied sour orange that leaves a film of sweetness.  The alcohol content is barely noticeable which is surprising considering the Gin rolls in at 41%, the Vermouth at 16% and the Campari at 24% which averages out at 27% ABV.  Throw some ice at this and a bit of orange peel- yummy.  Glad I expanded my palate this Friday afternoon.  Salut….

Franc Dusak Still Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Sonoma Valley, California

24 Thursday Feb 2022

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I am cooking a very complex and spice-laden dish for dinner- so no wimpy, thin wines tonight.  This Cabernet has been aged in Whiskey barrels and comes from Cali, so I am looking forward to some hearty and bold flavors to complement my Lamb Tagine which is loaded up with Ras-el-Hanout spice mix, honey, preserved lemons, dried apricots, peas and the ever present onions and garlic.  Side dish is pearled couscous mixed with peppers, garbanzos and red onion- drizzled with a lime/olive oil and honey dressing.

So- the wine itself is inky purple, as in opaque AF.  The nose is gorgeous.  Pronounced aromas of blackberry, black plum, caramel, smoke, vanilla- loads of oak influence there.  The palate is very smooth with what seems to be a touch of sweetness.  I doubt there is residual sugar, must be ripe fruit and perhaps the whiskey barrel influence?  Anyways I get delicious flavors of black berries and currants, plum, smoke, vanilla and the caramel.  The wine has beautifully integrated tannins that caress my gums from the beginning to the end.  Juicy acidity hits on the finish where I now sense the powerful 16.1% ABV.  Be careful out there, that’s quite high.  This full bodied wine is a treat that is going to pair beautifully with my exotic dinner.  I would drink this till 2026, it has some cellaring capacity but don’t let it get too long-it is drinking well now.  91 points for this $ 25 bottle makes it a 5 star effort.  Salut…..

Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 2006, Cote de Nuits, France

24 Thursday Feb 2022

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I was reading an olde book about French wines, written a few years ago and chock full of iconic classics.  I stumbled across a Burgundy wine that I recognized so I checked my cellar and sure enough I had a bottle or two of this 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin.  My mind was instantly made up- Duck Confit and a glass of this aged Pinot Noir would fit my dinner plans perfectly.  I needed help getting the cork out, the Ah-so was a savior…

For a 16 year old Burgundy there is plenty of medium ruby color with virtually no sign of bricking.  The nose is exactly what I was hoping for.  Stewed cherry, barnyard, garigue, dried herbs and cooked strawberry essence.  Very little oak is evident but the tertiary notes are singing.  On the palate it is very smooth, tart, dry and still very tannic.  Medium (+) intensity flavors of cooked cherry dominate with supporting notes of raspberry, strawberry and rhubarb crumble.  The barnyard/garigue and dried herb components are present but the tartness is a bit much.  It is medium (-) bodied and has a mid length finish.  This is still a young wine with more evolution left, which contradicts the original assumptions that it would peak in 2013.  There is plenty of structure and fruit to last until 2028 at the least.  Under-scored and under-estimated- this $80 wine gets 92 points from me and 5 stars.  Glad I cellared a few bottles, looking forward to more evolution.  Salut….

Lillet Blanc NV, France

23 Wednesday Feb 2022

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In my wine studies I have started to explore the nether-regions of the grape.  I’ve been trying out Port, Sherry, Vermouth and today I am looking at a white aperitif called Lillet that is made from 85% white Bordeaux blends and 15% macerated fruit liquors that fortify the wine to 17% ABV.  Served alone or mixed with a myriad of seltzers and sparklers it can make some very refreshing summer drinks or even to spice up a Martini a’la 007.

This offering is medium gold in the glass and has pronounced aromas of blood oranges, blossom, candied orange peel, honeysuckle and a pink grapefruit spritz.  Very citrus-and-floral driven.  The palate is off-dry and smooth.  I can sense the alcohol on the initial palate, but then again I am tasting it at room temperature versus well chilled as advised.  Medium (+) intensity flavors of said citrus and floral notes plus a full bodied mouthfeel make for quite an entrance.  It has medium acidity and a long finish.  I do sense the alcohol burn on the back end which will theoretically not matter much if you dilute it with seltzer or beef it up with Gin or Vodka.  By itself this one should be chilled and enjoyed over the rocks perhaps?  I like it and now that the bottle is open I must consume it forthwith or else it will oxidize.  For $20 it’s probably a good addition to any well stocked bar.  Salut….

Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth

22 Tuesday Feb 2022

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I recently did a taste test of two different Vermouths that got me thinking.  In my curiosity I delved into the history of the elixir to try and understand it better.  The nuts and bolts of which include a neutral wine, red or white.  Add aromatics and then fortify with alcohol to produce this unique aperitif or mixer.  The key ingredient by European law is the aromatic and herbaceous Wormwood (hello Absynthe) that gives it the bitterness we have come across.  The German name for this perennial (and somewhat poisonous) plant is Wermut, which was loosely translated to Vermouth.

I already tasted the Carpano Classico, today I will compare it to the Carpano Antica which runs $42 a bottle.  It is pale amber in color and has pronounced aromas of burnt caramel, orange peel, raisin pumice, bright floral notes and vanilla bean.  The palate is barely off-dry but the sweetness builds on the palate.  Very smooth, medium (-) acidity, low tannins and a crispness that is refined.  The wine is medium bodied and I can sense the alcohol on the mid palate.  The flavors are very precise and well integrated- citrus from the orange peel, raisins, walnuts, oak influence by way of the caramel and vanilla with a gentle bitterness.  The finish is medium (-) in length and bitter with the orange and nuts lingering.  I never thought I would drink Vermouth straight up but this is a seriously smooth drop that invites one to add a cube of ice and a slice of orange peel to sip at sundown.

As I mentioned in my original Vermouth post (https://caspernick.com/2022/02/14/vermouth-taste-test/), I prefer the Dolin for Manhattans but I think I would like to try this one in a Negroni, where the medium level off bitterness coupled with the not-so-sweet flavors will meld well with Campari and Gin.  Salut….

Negroni Recipe

Equal parts:

  • Vermouth
  • Campari
  • Gin

Garnish with a slice or peel of orange over ice.  Stirred, not shaken!

Sojourn Cellars Wohler Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018, Russian River Valley, California

22 Tuesday Feb 2022

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I’m a fan of this winery, having first tasted a bottle of their 2009 Gaps Crown Pinot back in the day.  My review is quite interesting and can be found at:https://caspernick.com/2012/08/10/sojourn-gaps-crown-vineyard-pinot-noir-2009/

I bought a few Magnums of this particular wine on spec and am glad I did- tasty stuff that paired beautifully with a roast Pork shoulder and apple reduction sauce.  I previously wrote about this particular wine and am glad to see my notes are consistent.

Pale garnet- which is kind of surprising for a wine that’s only four years old, it does look a little bit murky though. The nose has medium intensity aromas of strawberry coulis, bing cherry, cinnamon stick, burnt orange peel and stewed strawberry.  On the palate this dry wine is juicy with very, very mild tannins and a medium body. Pronounced flavors of red and black cherry with some strawberry nuance, spice box and hints of oak. I love the mouth feel of the wine, even though it’s medium bodied it’s got a certain lightness to it that I am really enjoying. The finish is medium length and has nice raspberry and red cherry notes with some vibrant acidity. 92 points for this $54 effort makes it worthy of 5 stars and something to look for and drink by 2026.  Salut….

Vinium Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Napa Valley, California

19 Saturday Feb 2022

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Deep ruby/purple in the glass it has a unique nose.  Medium intensity aromas of açaí berry are the first thing I smell.  After a good swirl I get boysenberry, red plum, eucalyptus, coconut and a dusty, brambly component.  Very interesting and quite complex.  The palate is reminiscent of black charcoal and blue fruit compote.  It’s quite tannic with good acidity and medium to full body.  The flavors are out of whack though- I get unripe fruit mixed with oak influence and slightly green tannins.  Not what I was expecting to be honest.  The back end is quite astringent, not in a good way.  I’m taking a step back, doing some research and letting this wine breathe.

I’m back and traced the roots of this wine- it retails for $125 and is still not very righteous.  I’m sorry but the write-ups and reviews just don’t gibe with me.  This is an 83 point wine that may improve with age as it has some structure, but unless that fruit thing on the palate resolves itself this is not a pleasant wine to sip.  1 star and a major pass IMHO.  Salut….

Gioso Barolo DOCG 2016, Piedmont, Italy

18 Friday Feb 2022

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This Nebbiolo is rather young at 5 years old but I have a hankering for something to go with our Tenderloin tonight.  It’s bordering on garnet but is clearly a pale shade.  The nose is of medium intensity and has aromas of steeped cherry, cooked strawberry compote, leather, dried herbs, coconut and charred oak.  Classic Barolo components- I’m excited to taste.

The palate is dry and tart, as expected.  The tannins are present but you can tell they have softened from their youth and are nicely integrating.  Medium (+) intensity flavors of cherry, leather, herbs, a medicinal note (from the oak presumably) and kirsch are noted.  Medium bodied- this wine has high acidity and a nice finish, albeit rather grippy and tart.  These are all qualities to look forward to in this varietal.  The wine is obviously still young and needs time to flesh out and gain more tertiary notes but it will drink nicely with our Beef and would pair well with stews and game.  I’m not convinced that it’s a 92 point wine as awarded by one pro, more like an 89 point effort that gets 3 stars for it’s $30 price point.  I have a few more in the cellar and will spread them out over the next few years.  Salut….